I knew this was going to be a good one the moment I first saw the pattern.
Because shoulder detail.
Because self leaves.
Because bias trim.
Let's just jump straight in!
DETAILS
The Pattern
This newest make is Vogue #1542 by designer Patricia Jeanne Keay and it's a beauty.
The instructions are are clear and detailed and explain the detailing on the neckline well.
I did a little Internet sleuthing (stalking) to find out just who this new designer is and I found her on Pattern Review under trishapatk and she seems like a thoughtful and lovely lady who loves to sew and has a whole heck of talent!
Fabric
As much as I fantasised about making this in red, I'd made somewhat of a promise to myself to use as much of the fabric in my stash as possible and only purchase new fabric if absolutely necessary (hello news years resolution for the past one zillion years)!
So this dress was made using a stunning powder blue 100% wool crepe that I purchased from Mood Fabrics a few years ago.
Seriously though, how decadent is wool crepe? So soft! So drape-y!
Style and Features
Fully lined with facings attached on top of the lining for extra support around the neckline and underarms.
A fitted dress with princess seams that flatter and a lovely a-symmetrical flounce along the hem.
For those of you that follow me on instagram you may have seen my post where I um'd and ah'd over whether I should keep the flounce or ditch it for a straight skirt. I love a vintage silhouette and I worried that a flounce might over balance the pretty details along the neckline.
The overwhelming consensus was to keep the flounce and I'm so glad I did! It makes the dress proportioned and just looks pretty! Thanks to those who commented with your advice!
The indisputable standout of this dress is the stunning neckline!
The soft folds of the shoulder straps adds elegance and style.
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| Didn't realise till later - I forgot to remove the binding stitch on the sleeve ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ |
The delicate leaves and vines hand stitched onto the bodice front make this an unforgettable feature! The individual pieces are machine sewn together and then shaped with hand stitching. Once created they were sewn by hand onto the dress.
I had a little bit of trouble with the loose weave of the wool crepe and had to repair some of the seams on the 'tubes' that split apart, but I really enjoyed the hand-stitching! I love playing with new sewing techniques and the result of this was so visually pleasing and inspiring.
Sizing
I cut this dress in a size 12 and when I first sewed the pieces together it was swimming on me! Looking at the model on the pattern cover it's clear that it's not supposed to be super fitted; there looks to be a few cm's of positive ease.
I however wanted more of a fitted look and should have just cut a few sizes smaller.
#alwayssewamuslin
Thankfully princess seams make for easy adjustments! I ended up taking in each princess seam and side seam evenly, removing about 8cm in total but leaving the underarms the same size.
Changes
As mentioned above, I did take the dress in a lot but the issue was more with picking the right size as the changes were quite even.
I shortened the skirt by a few extra cm's to suit my shorter frame.
LOOK OUT for the hem length of the lining. I kept looking through the pattern to see if I missed a pattern piece or a step but it appears the hem length is just super short, which I can only assume is an error. Like, it just covers my bum. I would advise adding about 10cm to the length for extra comfort. Before I wear this any where I will add to the hem of the lining for personal preference.
Conclusion
I really love the design of the dress and how my version turned out! It has unique detailing that is really fun to play with and it is a lovely flattering dress. And when you've been sewing for a few years it's a real buzz to try something out that you've never done before! A great learning dress with lots of wow factor!
Anyone else ready to try this pattern out?
This is just gorgeous! And you wear it so well too! I agree with a longer lining, especially when the fabric is slightly transparent. So well done!
ReplyDeleteThank you Gladys! You're right, if this fabric was less transparent you could get away with the short lining, but much more obvious in the fabric I've chosen! Thanks so much for your comment!
DeleteIt' a beautiful dress with that awesome fabric. Lining could be longer but neckline details are so chic. Congratulations!
ReplyDeleteThat is a beautiful dress and the fabric is gorgeous. I hear you on the lining, but actually, it doesn't look bad at all and is quite in vogue, IMO. Love the detailing the neckline. A job very well done!
ReplyDeleteThanks Melissa! You're right; I've noticed a lot of dresses out at the moment that have either super short lining or none at all so maybe I can get away with it! :)
DeleteLove the dress, all the details are FAB. Would have to agree about the lining, it should be longer. As far as RTW doing short linings...I always think RTW is just looking to cut costs wherever, whenever and then they call it a "trend", like all the buttonless cardigans out there...
DeleteOoh wow. Just WOW! What a lovely dress pattern & how beautifully you've put it together. It's a smashing dress which looks as though you've picked it up at an haute couture boutique for an equally nice price! I love it...
ReplyDeleteNow THAT'S a compliment! Thanks so much Polly!
DeleteMagnificent Julia! Just gorgeous.
ReplyDeleteGorgeous dress, but if I make it I will line the flounce. I don't like how the straight lining just ends. Otherwise it's a beautifully flattering silhouette.
ReplyDeleteThanks Tee! Yeah I'll definitely be making the lining longer for a bit more balance! :)
DeleteWhen I first saw this pattern at Vogue I was smitten too! It's so beautiful and wondrous to see it made up in this gorgeous baby blue wool crepe!! So SATISFYING :) And so beautifully sewn and fitted. Stunning. I didn't buy the pattern because quite honestly I don't go to places where I would actually wear it and I'm pretty sure it's too many steps above my abilities.
ReplyDeleteIt's actually a lot easier than it looks and the instructions are sound! And oh yes, this fabric was so satisfying to sew with; a real dream! Thanks so much for your comment! :)
DeleteThis is a gorgeous pattern that looks stunning on you. Your fabric stash is amazing!
ReplyDeleteThank you! And my fabric stash is getting smaller now too, which is good! :)
DeleteAbsolutely stunning! I love the pale blue, red would have been good too, but the blue really works. You make me want to try it!
ReplyDeleteDo it do it!! It's a lovely pattern! :)
DeleteThis is stunning! I would like to make one exactly like this, even the colour!
ReplyDeleteOh you should! It's really enjoyable to make and is a real statement piece when it's done! Thanks for your kind comment :)
DeleteBeautiful dress - I have purchased the pattern and I have selected crepe-back-satin in an emerald green - I am really looking forward to the make - just need to finish off a couple of other garments. thanks for the reivew
ReplyDeleteOH my goodness this dress will be a knock out in emerald green! I hope you post it online when you've finished it! Good luck!
DeleteI note in your review you said there is a lot of positive ease, I am trying to figure out what size to cut out as the bust is spot on but grade up in the waist and down for the hips - the pattern calls for 4" (10cms) ease - do you think that is a lot? how much ease do you think you ended up with in the hips as it looks great on you?
DeleteWow, this is proof that I really need to read the instructions closely before I cut a size because I didn't realise it had 10cm positive ease! Makes sense why it was so big now!!
DeleteI would definitely sew a muslin if you're nervous about the fit. Maybe even trace the pattern pieces if you've got time so you don't have to buy a new pattern if it's the wrong size. I took it in about 8 cm evenly, including my hips. I have more of a pear shape so that's usually the area that I have to go up a size! Hope this helps and all the best! Xx
Wow that is stunning. I think I will go and look for that pattern and give it a try. The decorative neckline scares me though.
ReplyDeleteYou absolutely should! And don't worry, the instructions are done well. Just take your time on the hand stitching; once you accept that it'll be a slow project you can just go with it and enjoy it! Good luck and thanks for your comment!
DeleteSimply stunning! The flounce looks less pronounced on your version anyway - just right I reckon. I wish I had an excuse to make something so fancy!
ReplyDeleteThanks so much Jane! I say make the dress and then think of somewhere fancy to wear it! ;)
DeleteThe dress looks fabulous, well done! I rather like the short lining, it looks flirty and modern.
ReplyDeleteOh thank you!! Well I still have a while before I need to make up my mind about the lining :)
DeleteHi Julia - lovely dress! was there an option on the pattern to make longer sleeves? I'll look for the pattern though
ReplyDeleteHi Jane! There was only the option for the short sleeves on this dress, but I don't think it would be too hard to substitute a sleeve from another pattern! Thanks for your comment :)
DeleteI loved this pattern at first sight also, but decided against it, because I have a casual lifestyle. I noted, however, that the designer indicated on Pattern Review that the dress can be casual with the appropriate fabric. I can see that now, and am going to try it in a soft linen blend, or something similar. As for your short lining, one could make the argument that it is short enough to reveal a sexy peek at one's legs, but long enough to retain one's modesty. If the lining is long enough to be comfortable when you sit, I believe I'd leave it as is.
ReplyDeleteYou are so right Ann, in a linen and minus the detailing it would be a really lovely casual style dress with just a little bit of something extra! It's also very comfy too :)
DeleteWow! That's a gorgeous dress. I love the drape of the fabric and, of course, the detail at the neckline really makes it stand out. You do an amazing job!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much! :) I'm so glad it turned out well :)
DeleteOh, my. It is just beeutiful! Yes I would love to give it a try. I agree that you need more lining. It kinda' looks silly that way. How 'bout black and white for the neckline treatment? Or dark grey. Oh, the possibilities!
ReplyDeleteoh my goodness SO MANY OPTIONS!! I love where your head is at!! I hope you do it!
DeleteThat would make the coolest bridesmaid dresses in different colors to suit the individual ladies!
ReplyDeleteThat is actually genius Abby! How nice would that be?!!!
DeleteSTUNNING !!! Red would be lovely too, but the powder blue is so much more subtle. It is a really elegant dress. Well done.
ReplyDeleteThank you Jacana! :)
DeleteOh my goodness, it's gorgeous! Looks like a First Lady dress! I agree on the lining being too short, as it distracts, and nothing should distract from that gorgeous neckline treatment. Black is my favorite color, but I suspect the details stand out much more in this fantastic blue. Just perfect!
ReplyDeleteThank you so much!! I like the idea of a First Lady dress! It's definitely an elegant look :) This would look beautiful also in black, subtle and elegant.
DeleteThanks so much for your kind comment!
This dress is my plan for my wedding dress (whenever the date finally rolls around) but now I am worried that I need to buy the smaller size grouping, just in case!
ReplyDeleteI am so excited to see yours and that the curls worked in the crepe! OMG I can't wait to make this dress!
Lots of wow factor indeed - the dress looks stunning - I live the colour and the details. And YOU look fab, too!
ReplyDelete*love, of course:) P.S. The short lining is noticeable, but maybe less so IRL? And while I'm not a fan of short linings, it only makes the dress look 'younger', edgier, more flirty.
DeleteThis dress is pure Julia! Heavenly! Gorgeous!
ReplyDeleteJust STUNNING!!!!
ReplyDelete